To kick-off the start of our HomelessHapas Mini-Guides, I thought it would be nice to start off with a run-down of my favorite beaches and restaurants at a popular vacation destination, and one of my personal favorite places to visit: Oahu. More Mini-Guides are on there way; please let me know if you have any requests!
Beaches
(The nice thing about Oahu’s beaches is that many of them offer showers for rinsing off as well as public restrooms. However, do not leave valuables in your car as some places have problems with break-ins.)
Windward Side:
Lani Kai–Consistently voted as one of Hawaii’s top beaches, this breezy location offers a thin stretch of powdery white sand, gentle ripples of waves, and a beautiful expanse of turquoise sea. Many people like to kayak out to the nearby islands, but it is also a great place to lay around lazy in the sun.
Kailua Beach Park–Neighbors with Lani Kai, this long stretch of beach is a popular spot for wind and kite surfers. I like this beach as an alternative to Lani Kai because it is easier to stake out your own spot away from other people and the waves are a little bit bigger.
Waimanalo Beach Park–Just off the main road, tucked back behind a row of trees, Waimanalo Beach envelopes you in its rushing winds and the sound of the waves. This humble spot seems more rugged than some of the others on the Windward side, and boasts a grassy picnic/camping area in place of bougie beach houses. Its simplicity makes the beach all the more breath-taking, and if you get there early enough you will be able to enjoy its beauty all to yourself. There is a fun little diner/take out up the street (towards Kailua) that is called Keneke’s. They have all the usual stuff plate lunch fare in addition to killer shave ice. Pick up a box to go and enjoy it at Waimanalo Beach Park. If you want to go really local, sometimes there is a house selling little fresh lau lau up the road from Keneke’s (out of a house on the mauka side; look for the sign on the roadside. Mauka means mountain, makai means ocean…this is the easiest way to tell directions in Hawaii because its hard to tell which way is North, south, etc.)
North Shore:
Pipeline/Ehukai Beach–Known for its consistently good break, this is not really a swimming beach (particularly in the winter when the waves are at their peak) unless it is a calm day. However this is still a great spot for wave-gazing and enjoying a sunset, and rarely crowded unless a competition is going on.
Waimea Bay–This small bay is famous for its big winter waves. In other seasons you can jump off a huge rock into the incoming swells, just make sure you hit the water evenly to avoid bruising! This beach is widely popular with locals so bring a cooler with some Hawaiian Sun, musubi, and sun block (so that you won’t stand out as the sun-burned haole) and join the fun.
Leeward Side:
That One Beach–While I don’t actually know the name of this beach, but I have been there a couple times and liked it a lot. The beach is a wide crescent shaped stretch of sand with small waves to play in, but mellow enough for swimming without having to worry about the current. It is located right along the main road, Farrington Highway, so you don’t have to turn anywhere to find it (it’s down near Makaha). I think it is the beach just after Kili Dr (on the mauka side), but I guess you will know if you see a big crescent beach with easy parking on your left. This side, Waianae side, has a reputation for being a little rough the futher you go down the road. You should be fine, but don’t leave anything in your car.
Ko’olina Lagoons–This set of man-made lagoons is near the JW Marriot luxury hotels and condos and soon-to-be Disney Resort. There are a few permanent umbrellas at each lagoon as well as a grassy area with trees to provide refreshing shade. Though a little bland as far as beaches go, Ko’olina is nice for its mellow resort atmosphere, shady grass area, and is definitely kid-friendly. I think non-guests can eat at the Marriot’s restaurants, or you are welcome to bring your own food. To get there, follow the signs to Ko’olina (you will see towers and a golf course to your left, don’t make the mistake of turning into Kapolei which comes before Ko’olina). Just tell the guards you are going to the Marriot or to the lagoons. Even though they are open to the public, parking it very limited, so its best to go early in the day.
Downtown:
Ala Moana Beach Park–A local staple, many people use this place for swimming, running, walking, and playing sports. It is packed with bbqing families on weekends and especially on holidays. The 4th of July is a definite highlight with a smokey post-dinner fireworks preshow provided by the locals, followed by a booming display of fireworks shot off from Magic Island. A sprawling grassy area provide plenty shady places to sit and there is a mellow cove for swimming, perfect for small children. The park has its own parking lot, or you can easily walk over from the Ala Moana Shopping Center (also a good place to grab some take-out or other beach supplies).
Waikiki–This is a long stretch of sand is probably the most well-known in Hawaii, and is always packed with tourists. My two favorite spots are at either end. If you go down by the end with the nicer hotels (facing water, its on the right side, near the Hilton) it is pretty crowded, but I think this is a fun spot to secretly spy on all the tourists. No matter where you are on Waikiki, people watching is fun as there are characters all over the beach. The other spot I like to go is on the left side, down by the zoo (small, but a nice place to visit if you have kids). It is called Queen’s Beach, I think because it is near Liliokulani Park. You will know you are there when you see the wall.
If you drive away from the city towards Makapu Lighthouse, you will hit a lot of small beach parks on the makai side, keep driving further and you will pass Hanauma bay (classic snorkeling spot, go early, you have to watch a video at the ranger station before heading downhill), and the blow hole, as well as a few lookout points. If you keep going further down the road, you will come to a long straight stretch of shore-breaking waves called Sandies, this is definitely a local spot and popular with body boarders. (Swimming and body boarding is not recommended if you are a beginner.) Sometimes people fly big kites in the park which can be fun to watch. Past this is the lighthouse trail, and just around the corner from that is Makapu Beach, which also has an unfriendly break, while it is popular with body boarders, I would not recommended swimming here.
Other fun places to go:
Haleiwa (on the North Shore)–There are lots of little shops around here, including my favorite shave ice shop, Matsumoto’s Shave Ice. This place has been around forever, as you will be able to see from the syrup-stained floor outside and faded pictures ont he inside. Ordering a shave ice (small size is still huge) with beans and ice-cream is the way to go. There are several shops in Haleiwa, but many sell the same type of thing. However, there is a little shop (facing Matsumoto, go to the next building on your right) that I went into the last time I was in townthat had some interesting home and jewelry items. I don’t know if I would buy anything, but it was fun to peruse the store until Matt “started to die” and we had to go…) Sometimes there is a truck selling huli huli chicken in one of the parking lots along the road (Hawaiian style rotisserie), if you see it, seize the opportunity to eat some delicious chicken. They can cut it up for you so you can eat it on the spot or take it to go.
Chinatown–Who doesn’t love a good Chinatown? There food courts and shops hidden in the inside courtyards of the buildings and it is a fun place to buy tropical fruits, check out the fish market and find other random items on this side of the Pacific. This area is also next door to the Downtown Honolulu where there are many professionals in aloha shirts, the courthouse, and Dog the Bounty Hunter.
Makapu Lighthouse hike–This is a fun little hike up a hill that offers a nice view of some small islands and the beach below. You can also take the lower path to the right out to a small swimming hole. (I think this area is called Pele’s Chair.)
Hilton Hawaiian Village–on Friday nights there is a small fireworks show at the lagoon. There are a dozens of lounge chairs here around the pool, seemingly available to guests and non-guests alike. (You could probably use the jacuzzi too and no one would know…) There is a mid-sized public parking-lot close by near the piers off of Holomoana St., just pay attention to the signs because you can’t park there all night. There is usually live music going on in a couple of the lounges at the Hilton as well as other places along Waikiki. (It’s free, but usually they want you to buy drinks or something.) Check out the Honolulu Weekly for live entertainment listings; there is always a lot going on.
Manoa Valley–This mellow neighborhood is located up on the hill behind UH, and is one of my favorite neighborhoods on Oahu. It is an old neighborhood, in fact, my grandpa used to live up there when he was a kid, and I have relatives buried in the Chinese cemetery at the top of the hill. You can go on a short hike to a small waterfall at the back of the valley, but be careful for mosquitoes any time you are near water in the forest, and be prepared for a little rain (the daily showers are known as the “Manoa Mist”). There is a Safeway shopping center across the street from Starbucks and if you go to the back there are a couple good little places to grab some food. Our favorite is a little dim-sum bakery on the bottom level called Island Manapua Factory. You HAVE to eat there. Get some manapua (a big char siu bao), rice cakes, and whatever else. Everything is pretty good.
Pali Look-out–This historic and scenic site is located up on the cliff with an amazing view and strong gusts of wind.
Arizona Memorial–From what I can remember, go early in the day to avoid lines. It is definitely an interesting and informational spot to learn about the tragic Pearl Harbor attacks. If you are out in this area, there is a little diner with big servings off of Kamehameha Higway in the Waimalu Shopping Center. The place is called Kapiolani Coffee shop (98-020 Kam Hwy, Aiea, HI - (808) 488-7708). They are famous for their oxtail soup. The broth is similar to pho, but the meat is super tender and good. If you like mac salad, or even if you don’t, try it here. I don’t usually eat mac salad, but I do think Hawaiian mac salad is the BEST for some reason, and here it is awesome. This same strip mall is home to a Leonard’s and also Shiros, my dad’s favorite place to get a bowl of saimin.
Nice Views–From Punch Bowl, Diamond Head, and Tantulus Drive.
Iolani Palace–For a little bit of Hawaiian history.
Shopping–Longs, Walmart, and Don Quijote are all good place to stock up on local snacks and goodies to bring home. For cool shirts, Macy’s carrys a good selection of Local Motion brand stuff, also check out the shop at Matsumoto’s shave ice.
Restaurants/Food:
*****Leonard’s Malasadas–A must. Outlets can be found at various locations around the island. Just get the classic sugar kind, or maybe the ones with cinnamon.
****Ala Moana Food Court–A hungry person’s dream, it is easy to find practically anything is here, including Hawaiian food. For a fancier, sit-down meal, head upstairs to the more formal restaurants.
*****Kapiolani Coffee Shop–Legendary ox-tail soup and large plate lunch options. See above for details.
***Shiro’s–Saimin in many ways.
*****Island Manapua Factory–Dim-sum-alicious. See above for details.
****Zippys–While not fancy or anything, this restaurant chain is still pretty good and easy to find as they are everywhere. It’s like Denny’s, Hawaiian style. Some favorites include: Portuguese bean soup, kalua pig, laulau, and, if you are on the go, try a Zip Pac.
***Bubby’s–an ice cream parlor in Honolulu closer to UH, they have a fun menu and good mochi ice-cream too.
*****Matsumoto Shave Ice–The real deal. See above for details.
*Windy City Diner–a couple of these throughout the island, people like the place, I don’t really know what the big deal is, but i guess if you want a diner with some non-standard diner things like kimchi fried rice, this is the place to go.
Foods that are tasty: lomi lomi salmon, poke, poi, kalua pig, lau lau, malasadas, haupia, shave ice, manapua, spam musubi, portuguese bean soup, oxtail soup…

